How to change a bodice block to a sleeveless block

Do you want to make a strapless or sleeveless top? If so, you need to know how to change a bodice pattern into a sleeveless pattern. There are a few simple steps that you need to do in order to make the armhole tighter. To watch the full video, click on the link below. 

Dart Manipulation | Pivoting

This type of dart manipulation i'm going to talk about is called pivoting.
 
     * Pattern cutters often prefer to use this method as pivoting is often the quicker and  
        cleaner method, but cannot be used for all styles.

     * When pivoting, it's important to remember that the CF (center front) and CB (center back)  

        should remain on the grain (unless moving darts into these positions).

Note***

When using the pivoting method on the front bodice, the bust point is used as the pivot point and then the new dart is then redrawn to the bust arc (see here).

As an example, I will show you how to transfer the shoulder dart to the underarm.

1. Mark a new point (site mark) on the block, where you want the new dart to be.
2. Decide which area of the block that won't be affected by the repositioning of the dart and mark around this area. In this case it is from the shoulder dart leg to the new dart position.

Dart Manipulation | Slash & Spread

The type of dart manipulation i'm going to talk about today is the slashing method (also known as slash and spread/cut and spread).
    
     * Slashing is the more creative method used in pattern cutting and can be used for all  
        styles.

     * It can be more time consuming than pivoting but it is a more controllable method.

     * It is suitable for the less experienced pattern cutter.

Slashing is closing the unwanted dart area and slashing open where the new one is required.

Note***

When using the slashing method, the slash should go to the bust point and then the new dart is redrawn to the bust arc (see here).

As an example, I will show you how to transfer the shoulder dart to the underarm.

1. Mark around the front bodice block, marking all necessary info such as darts, bust points,  
    notches etc

2. Mark the position of the new dart from the out edge to the bust point (A-B).
3. Cut out the new pattern.
4. Cut along the new dart line to the bust point.
5. Fold out the unwanted dart (C-D) and pin/tape/glue. (The old dart may be slashed and  
    then closed also- both methods work fine).

6. A new dart will form at the underarm.
7. Secure new pattern to a clean sheet of paper.
8. Remark the bust point and tip of the new dart i.e. 1.5-2cm (see here) from the bust point  
    and true the new dart. To true the dart is to redraw the dart lines.
9. Fold the dart and trace through the seam line. This will give the correct seam line shape at 
    the dart end.

Dart Manipulation | The Basics

I do love working with darts when pattern cutting. There are so many things you can do with darts to create different effects and styles such as creating stylelines, gathers, pleats, multiple darts, flare and tucks. The list is literally endless!

So... what is a dart? A dart is simply a fold sewn into fabric to help provide a three-dimensional or structured shape to a garment (where the body has extreme contours such as the bust, hips, elbow, etc). They are frequently used in clothing to tailor the garment to the wearer's shape. They confine unneeded fullness at the pattern's edge. They can have one or two pointed ends, depending on style. Some people mark in the centre line of the dart, which just indicates the fold line.

Dart manipulation is the most basic and the most useful skill the pattern cutter uses. Basically, if you can get your head around this... you're laughing!!! Your design options will be endless!

Each part of the basic block has darts, which can be moved to create various numbers of styles. A dart can be transferred to any location around the pattern's outline from a designated pivotal point without affecting the size or fit of the garment.

Dart locations

These are the most common areas for dart relocation and for creating design patterns. However, they aren't the only dart locations because a dart can be transferred anywhere around the pattern's outline.