07 November 2012

Dart Manipulation | Slash & Spread

The type of dart manipulation i'm going to talk about today is the slashing method (also known as slash and spread/cut and spread).
     * Slashing is the more creative method used in pattern cutting and can be used for all  
     * It can be more time consuming than pivoting but it is a more controllable method.
     * It is suitable for the less experienced pattern cutter.

Slashing is closing the unwanted dart area and slashing open where the new one is required.

When using the slashing method, the slash should go to the bust point and then the new dart is redrawn to the bust arc (see here).

As an example, I will show you how to transfer the shoulder dart to the underarm.

1. Mark around the front bodice block, marking all necessary info such as darts, bust points,  

    notches etc
2. Mark the position of the new dart from the out edge to the bust point (A-B).
3. Cut out the new pattern.
4. Cut along the new dart line to the bust point.
5. Fold out the unwanted dart (C-D) and pin/tape/glue. (The old dart may be slashed and  
    then closed also- both methods work fine).
6. A new dart will form at the underarm.
7. Secure new pattern to a clean sheet of paper.
8. Remark the bust point and tip of the new dart i.e. 1.5-2cm (see here) from the bust point  
    and true the new dart. To true the dart is to redraw the dart lines.
9. Fold the dart and trace through the seam line. This will give the correct seam line shape at 
    the dart end.

So... just to recap...

Another example... transferring the shoulder dart into the waist...

I hope you found this tutorial helpful. If you need any more help or have any questions, feel free to ask!